Thursday, May 15, 2025

Pilgrimage I, Day 1: Memphis, Mountaintops, Martyrs

I have just completed a six day pilgrimage to the civil rights sites in the Mississippi Delta and environs. These are my reflections.

Entering Into History


I feel the bottom of my stomach fall out as we pull into the parking lot of the Lorraine Motel. You cannot miss the scene. It is burned into the memory of any American old enough to remember that dark evening in 1968. But seeing it in person is a whole different ballgame.

I remember that night vividly. There was initially the shock as the news spread around the stadium where the track meet I was participating in was occurring. Then the rage as the parking lot where our bus was parked filled with angry young men who would pepper our bus with rocks and bottles as we sped away, the track meet left unfinished. There was much more important business that night to attend to. Then, the next day, there was the grief, my Black female classmate collapsing to the floor sobbing when her sadistic white classmate pointed his fingers at her and said, “Bang, bang, you’re dead.” And then the numbness, the disbelief, the trying to make sense of the senselessness that had taken one of America’s finest minds and deepest souls from us leaving so many of us wondering if the America we loved even deserved such a prophetic voice.

There is a wreath on the balcony where King’s colleagues pointed to the building across the alley from whence had come the fatal shot. I found myself breathless, a knot forming in the pit of my stomach. I knew the story. But here we were to confront the reality.

The sign on the outside of the museum said it all: You are at a sacred place. Indeed. And simultaneously grateful for this encounter and soul sick knowing the truth about America it reveals.

 

The Bottom Line: “I am a Man!”




I believe it is not an accident that Martin Luther King was slain in the midst of the Memphis Garbageman Strike. His words “I am a Man!” reflected a vehement insistence that the humanity of these men must be recognized and respected. King knew this was fundamental, a bottom line in the entire movement he led. Until the humanity of those Jesus called “the least of these” was recognized, nothing else would matter.

Their work was grueling, dehumanizing, dangerous. Their strike was inspired by a malfunctioning garbage truck which had caused two workers who had gotten into the scoop to escape a rainstorm only to be crushed to death. The workers asked for a living wage and safe working conditions. The mayor refused to even talk to the union representatives. And it was this desperation and determination that would draw Martin Luther King, Jr. to Memphis.

At the Clayborn Temple where much of the organizing for the strike occurred, a stainless steel sculpture gleams in front of this ruined sanctuary recently gutted by a mysterious fire. Reading “I AM A MAN,” the sculpture contains the names of all the striking garbage workers whose courage and tenacity ultimately won the day in Memphis. Its message was then and remains now the bottom line.

There is a lesson in this for all of us in these very troubling times.

(My thanks to the National Civil Rights Museum for these images)

 

The Brainchild of the Movement




The Civil Rights Museum at the Lorraine Motel provided an excellent historical overview of the movement starting with the Plessy v. Ferguson decision that gave the green light to Southern states to erect a pernicious system of Jim Crow.

One of unsung heroes of the movement was Bayard Rustin. He had been raised in a Quaker tradition where he had learned to respect the divine spark within every living being and the duty to speak truth to power. Rustin would spend time in India learning Ghandi’s nonviolent resistance methods which he brought back to America and which then became infused in the movement. The values he helped inculcate there were simplicity, peace, integrity, community, equality and caring for others.

Rustin was as brilliant strategically as he was deep intellectually and spiritually. A forerunner of Marshall McLuhan, he knew the medium is the message, that music, art and symbols convey messages that words alone cannot. He also recognized that while a passionate speech evoke immediate emotional responses, a well-crafted essay can provoke in-depth analysis and reflection

Rustin was always in the background of the movement. A closeted gay man, his sexuality was seen as a liability to the movement. Stonewall was still years away even as the liberatory impulse the civil rights movement would unleash would eventually come even to the queers (current self designation). America is in the debt of this unsung heroes whose story I came to know better on my visit to the Civil Rights Museum.

(My thanks to the National Civil Rights Museum for these insights and images)

 

 The Mountaintop Almost Missed




The night before Martin Luther King, Jr. was slain, he gave perhaps his most famous sermon known as “The Mountaintop Speech.” Referencing the Hebrew Scripture story of Moses nearing the Promised Land, King said he, too, stood on the mountaintop seeing a new tomorrow for America. Presciently, he would say “I might not get there with you,” much like the Moses YHWH held back as the Israelites, ending their Exodus, poured into a new land. Within hours, King would be dead.

It was perhaps his best speech and it almost did not happen. A crowd had gathered at the Mason Temple that night in the midst of the Garbage Man Strike. They were expecting to hear King but he had had remained at the Loraine Motel to work on some items he felt were pressing.

A terrific storm had arisen that night. But that did not deter the folks of Memphis from coming to hear King. The Mason Temple was full. So King’s associates called him at the Motel and begged King came to the Temple to honor the dedication and devotion of the people who had come to hear him speak.

He had no prepared remarks, speaking extemporaneously, delivering one of America’s most beloved sermons. Today as we stood in front of that Temple, I gave thanks for the brilliance, courage and dedication of America’s prophet.

(My thanks to the National Civil Rights Museum for the photo on the right)

 

When Prophets Become Safe



One of the things that becomes clear as I hear the speeches and sermons of Martin Luther King, Jr. is that the constructed icon we have come to worship is a pale imitation of this prophetic figure. King was tapping into the very soul of America with his willingness to speak truth to power: impoverished Black soldiers fighting for their country in Southeast Asia only to return home to fight against that same country unwilling to treat them as first class citizens; a country whose ideals spoke of liberty and Justice for all but whose practices betrayed those ideals with governors standing in school house doors and police chiefs using high pressure fire hoses to blow Black children down the streets of Birmingham.

It’s a lot easier to love saints once we have killed them. We can sanitize them, take the edge off their prophetic words and deeds, reduce them to noble maxims, erect striking sculptures, celebrate designated feast days. We can put them in their place and require them to stay there. At a very fundamental level, we can put them out of our misery.

Out of our guilt, we will idolize them even as our best idolatry can never atone for our sins. But beneath it all, the spirit of the prophet remains, ready to rise in those who take the time to read their impassioned cries for our better angels to make their appearance once again.

At the end our first day on pilgrimage we stood in front of the ruins of the Clayborn Temple, victim of a recent fire of suspicious origins, and heard Valada Flewellyn, our resident poet, read the words of Carl Wendell Hines, Jr. It was a fitting way to end this first day of pilgrimage.

A Dead Man's Dream

Now that he is safely dead,
Let us praise him.
Build monuments to his glory.
Sing Hosannas to his name.
Dead men make such convenient heroes.
For they cannot rise to challenge the images That we might fashion from their lives.
It is easier to build monuments Than to build a better world.
So now that he is safely dead, We, with eased consciences will
Teach our children that he was a great man, Knowing that the cause for which he Lived is still a cause
And the dream for which he died is still a dream.
A dead man's dream.

 

[All images by author except as otherwise noted]

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 Harry Scott Coverston

 Orlando, Florida

  frharry@cfl.rr.com

 hcoverston.orlando@gmail.com

 

If the unexamined life is not worth living, surely an unexamined belief system, be it religious or political, is not worth holding. Most things worth considering do not come in sound bites.

Those who believe religion and politics aren't connected don't understand either. – Mahatma Gandhi

For what does G-d require of you but to do justice, and to love kindness, and to walk humbly with your G-d?  - Micah 6:8, Hebrew Scriptures

Do not be daunted by the enormity of the world's grief. Do justly, now. Love mercy, now. Walk humbly now. You are not obligated to complete the work, but neither are you free to abandon it. - Rabbi Rami Shapiro, Wisdom of the Jewish Sages (1993)

       © Harry Coverston, 2025

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