Pilgrimage II, Day 3 - Wounded
Knee, America’s Shadow
The site of the
Wounded Knee massacre is desolate. A handful of vendors seek to sell
dreamcatchers, swarming around newly arriving visitors holding their wares,
swearing to their authenticity and value. A couple of thin dogs roam the
parking lot where the large red signs lay out the details of the horrific
events which played out here in 1890. At the bottom of the sign, a spray
painted protest demands LAND BACK.
There is a sadness
about this place, a heaviness which is palpable. This is where America’s Shadow
is unable to hide. As desperate as it is, this is a place all Americans should
visit, a story all Americans must learn. The wounds are still fresh in this place.
There are stories to be told and heard, grief yet to be expressed.
Pilgrimage
II, Day 3 - Whispers of the Dead
The cemetery at
Wounded Knee lies atop a small hill overlooking the massacre site. We would later
be told by a tour guide at Red Cloud School that Indians bury their dead on
hills to replicate a more ancient practice of platform burials, removing their
bodies from predators on the ground and placing the deceased closer to the sky
where the relatives could speak to them.
The cemetery is
still an active burial site and American flags for the upcoming Memorial Day
observance could be seen at a number of graves. The Lakota were a warrior
people. Ironically, these latter day braves would serve in the same military
that decimated their peoples over time, the Wounded Knee Massacre one of the
darker moments of that sad history.
In the center of
the cemetery is a granite monument to the dead containing some of the names of
the massacre’s victims. All of the names are male adults though women and
children were among the dead, their resting places elsewhere among the graves
here in mostly unmarked burial sites.
I spent a good bit
of my time here praying. A lament flowed from me unbidden. I could feel the
immense grief all around me, the unhealed wounds, the pain of the Lakota people
whose generational trauma plays out in a number of pathologies from diabetes rates
to suicides. But it also plays out in the disowned darkness of the soul of an
America who has never come to grips with its immense and complex Shadow.
Whatever else this is, it is a part of our story as a people. We are all
implicated by the depravity of the events which occurred here.
I hear my own words
within: I am sorry. This was wrong. We must repent. This can never happen
again. But I also know that before anything remotely resembling healing can
occur, we must first own our Shadow.
These words cannot
touch the yawning black hole of pain and degradation that is still present in
this place. But being aware of it and willing to be present with that
discomfort is a first step.
Pilgrimage
II, Day 3 - When Art Speaks Pride and Hope
In Pine Ridge,
South Dakota, at Maȟpíya Lúta (formerly Red Cloud School) an art project has
provided a means for its Lakota students to insist upon the dignity they
deserve and express the hopes they hold. A summer art program provided them
cameras to create images they found powerful, a darkroom to develop negatives
which then used photo-sensitive cloth to create large quilts displaying their
visions.
The result is
stunning.
There is a reason
authoritarian systems almost immediately shut down artistic expression and
schools willing to look critically at their own societies and imagine a better
world. Maȟpíya Lúta reminds us why both are essential to a healthy people.
Pilgrimage
II, Day 3 - The Holy in Its Many images
At the MAHPÍYA LÚTA
(Red Cloud School) on the Pine Ridge Lakota Reservation, a chapel at the campus
center offers a vision of the Holy in which two different cultures meet.
Founded by the Jesuits and staffed in part by Franciscan sisters, the 135 year
old school, once a Catholic residential school, offers a cultural immersion
approach to education in which its lower grades are currently taught in the
Lakota language. The goal is to have the entire K-12 taught in Lakota by the
time the current 8th graders graduate.
This cultural
richness is also reflected in the Holy Rosary Chapel. Images of the Virgin Mary
and the Stations of the Cross are distinctly indigenous. The stain glass
windows bear Lakota symbols. And the circular confessional shares the round
shape of the nearby sweat lodge. Both spaces provide purification to those who
enter.
Our tour guide, a
graduate of the school and now its public relations officer, described herself
as a Lakota Catholic. Not either/or, both. I wonder how many of us can relate
to this blending of all of who we are as human beings in the expression of our faith.
The image of the
Creator is everywhere we look if we are willing to see it. That it would be
portrayed through the cultural lens of those create sacred spaces is hardly
surprising. And when two cultures come together to engage such undertakings,
the result is often quite beautiful.
Pilgrimage II, Day 3 - An Unlikely Shrine
Just outside Alliance, Nebraska, the passerby might note an
unusual collection of familiar objects. At first glance, it looks much like the
Stonehenge monument on the Salisbury Plain in England. But this isn’t the
Motherland. And these aren’t sarsens or bluestones standing erect and balanced
atop one another.
This roadside attraction is called Carhenge and the entire
display was created out of old automobiles. At a very basic level, it’s a
shrine to our consumer culture’s love affair with the automobile. With all due
respect to its creator, it does actually replicate the placement of its
inspiration’s stones including its orientation to the solstices. But who would
have guessed you’d run into this in the middle of the rolling hills and
cornfields of Nebraska?
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Harry Scott Coverston
Orlando, Florida
If the unexamined life is not worth living, surely
an unexamined belief system, be it religious or political, is not worth
holding. Most things worth considering do not come in sound bites.
Those who believe religion and politics aren't connected
don't understand either. – Mahatma Gandhi
For what does G-d require of you but to do justice, and
to love kindness, and to walk humbly with your G-d? - Micah
6:8, Hebrew Scriptures
Do not be daunted by the enormity of the world's grief.
Do justly, now. Love mercy, now. Walk humbly now. You are not obligated to
complete the work, but neither are you free to abandon it. - Rabbi Rami
Shapiro, Wisdom of the Jewish Sages (1993)
© Harry Coverston, 2025
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1 comment:
Wounded Knee affected you in the manner in which every single person in the US should be affected, even without the visit to the site. Of course, as you are pointing out, this is not the only shame we should feel. While we cannot be proud of all of our nation's hisoty, thankfully, there is much for which we can be very proud indeed. I only wish we were not turning in the wrong direction right now.
Janet
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